Fil-Am Chef Cris Comerford’s remarkable journey to the White House

First Lady Jill Biden to Executive Chef Cris Comerford: “I always say, food is love. Through her barrier-breaking career, Chef Cris has led her team with warmth and creativity and nourished our souls along the way. With all our hearts, Joe and I are filled with gratitude for her dedication and years of service.” CONTRIBUTED

NEW YORK CITY — How do you say goodbye to a beloved culinary icon?

When the news broke that Cris Comerford is stepping down from her position as executive chef of the White House, I had mixed emotions. I have always been used to knowing that a Filipino American chef is at the helm of the White House kitchen every time I visit the People’s House, whether I’m covering an event or bringing my TOFA artists for a tour or performance.

I had thought she would always be there, even as I retired. On the other hand, I am happy for her as she retires after almost three decades of preparing meals for the First Family and their diplomatic guests from all over the world.

Last week, the White House honored Chef Cris with a beautiful despedida—a champagne and cake reception attended by over 100 guests in the White House State Dining Room. Her sisters Opel Aguila, Edna Pestano and Josie Nejman were among the guests, along with Chef Cris’s husband, John Comerford, current and past WH executive residence staff, colleagues from government agencies and culinary professionals. Other Filipinos in attendance were current or past WH staff, according to Opel, whom I spoke with for this column.

At the White House reception in honor of her retirement, Executive Chef Cris Comerford was presented with a marble wall art embedded with the medallions of past presidents and administrations she has served, after 29 years of preparing meals for five different US presidents and countless world leaders. CONTRIBUTED

After 29 years of creating, serving and overseeing state dinners for five different US presidents and their families, Chef Cris was presented with a marble wall art embedded with the medallions of past presidents and administrations she has served.

Chef Cris accepted the gift and acknowledged all in attendance with a heartfelt speech focusing on what it means to serve the House and the joy of working with talented and dedicated colleagues who helped make her career enjoyable and successful.

From the florists to the craftsmen to the housekeeping staff, she had something special to honor them with and thank them for. She also read President John Adam’s quote inscribed on the mantle of the state dining room: “I pray to heaven to bestow the best blessings on this house and all that shall hereafter inhabit it.”

I asked Opel how it feels to have a sister who is a chef to one of the most powerful men on earth.

“Grateful for the blessing and mighty proud!” she told Inquirer.net USA. “Cris broke the glass ceiling with her achievements, first as an immigrant and second as a woman! Who would have thought that an immigrant and a female from a middle-class Filipino family would rise to being the top chef serving not only America’s but also the world’s leaders?”

Despite her high position, Cris remained grounded, Opel said. “She took it on with a lot of humility, and that’s the secret behind her grace under pressure, her diplomatic skills, her politeness, and her beautiful smiles when she presents her menu during state dinner previews.”

White House Executive Chef Cris Comerford with sisters (from left) Edna Pestano , Opel Aguila and Josie Nejman CONTRIBUTED

When not working in the White House kitchen, Chef Cris, who studied food technology at the University of the Philippines – Diliman, made sure to participate in Filipino events whenever possible. She traveled to New York and San Francisco, speaking at events that celebrate Filipino heritage.

She was a TOFA keynote speaker in 2015, a national awardee in 2017, among the 100 most influential Filipino Americans in 2020, and spoke strongly against Asian hate at the height of the movement in 2021.

Through her TOFA Heritage Award, Chef Cris honored her mother for developing in her a love for cooking. “It doesn’t matter who you are, where you came from, or what time of the day it is. Nana Pate, as she was lovingly known, could whip up anything, and believe me, it was always delicious and memorable. It is through her sharing of herself that I have learned growing up that God’s gifts of talent are meant to be shared and celebrated!”

Opel added, “Every meal that she concocts has a Filipino touch in it. That’s why it is always good.”

Chef Cris loved serving the First Family and their guests, Opel added. “During the three decades she spent there, she has shared experiences with the First Family, whether it was in the WH or traveling with them. With that privilege came the trust she earned by being judicious in sharing information and careful about the privacy of the First Family and the WH.”

Last week, Chef Cris was honored at the White House with an intimate farewell reception attended by over 100 guests in the State Dining Room. Among the attendees were current and former WH executive residence staff, government agency colleagues and culinary professionals. CONTRIBUTED

So what happens now? What is life like after her White House tenure?

Chef Cris is taking time off—“real time off from work.”

“She is ready to enjoy her new retirement home and is excited to decorate its walls with art, historic items, and mementos she and her husband treasure. She will also be traveling to Europe with her husband to join their daughter Danielle, who is further honing her skills in the pastry arts.”

Chef Cris with husband John Comerford CONTRIBUTED

First Lady Jill Biden had this to say about Chef Cris: “I always say, food is love. Through her barrier-breaking career, Chef Cris has led her team with warmth and creativity and nourished our souls along the way. With all our hearts, Joe and I are filled with gratitude for her dedication and years of service.”

Born in Sampaloc, Manila, Chef Cris moved to the US at 23 years old. She worked her way up in the culinary world, eventually becoming the first female and first person of color to be the White House Executive Chef in 2005. She was trained in French classical techniques and specialized in ethnic and American cuisine. She was first hired to work in the White House during the Clinton years as an assistant to then Executive Chef Walter Scheib III in 1995. In 2005, she was handpicked for the executive chef job by then-First Lady Laura Bush.

The daughter of Honesto, a school principal from Cuenca, Batangas, and Erlinda, a dress shop owner from San Rafael, Bulacan, Comerford gained recognition for her handling of high-profile events and her dedication to healthy eating. She retired from the White House in July 2024 after a successful career.

As Chef Cris steps into her well-deserved retirement, her legacy remains as a trailblazer who broke barriers and brought a touch of Filipino heritage to one of the most prestigious kitchens in the world.

Her story will continue to inspire future generations of chefs, proving that with passion and perseverance, anything is possible.