15 modern barong that pay homage to the iconic Filipino shirt
Here are 15 Filipino designers taking on the task of revitalizing barong as we know it | Photos from Tagpi, Renz Reyes, and Hansen/Instagram
The barong Tagalog is a feat of Filipino design.
It has outlived pre-colonial settlers, colonizers like the Spaniards—from whose era the barong is believed to have been born—presidents, politicians as well as departed Filipinos who are customarily dressed in this piña shirt on their way to the other side.
Its invention is ingenious. It uses delicate piña fibers to create a translucent fabric that’s well-suited to our humid climate. Even its embroidered motifs are a reflection of our craftsmanship. And while its name points to its Tagalog origin (it’s evolved linguistically from “baro ng Tagalog”), it has come to represent the whole archipelago’s sensibilities.
Little has changed in its design since its inception. The material is the same. Embroidery intact. Collars and sleeve lengths might vary depending on style. Its rootedness in traditions and customs prevented veering too far from these standards. Thus, barong was forever associated with rigid ceremonies and corrupt politicians, as dead as the cadaver wearing it six feet under.
Fortunately, the walls of reverence came crumbling down with the times. Homegrown designers subverted the barong and made it more casual, creative, and relatable while still preserving its centuries-old appeal.
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Here are 15 Filipino designers taking on the task of revitalizing barong as we know it.
Ched Studio
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Makati-based designer Ched Dalogaog swaps piña fiber with tight-woven and durable jusi, monochromatic embroidery with vibrant motifs, and barong’s stiff proportions with a contemporary boxy silhouette. Ched Studio also accepts custom orders.
EC
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Utilitarian like its purported cousin, the Latin American guayabera, EC’s custom-made and ready-to-wear barong has pockets. This jusi version is also oversized, maximizing barong’s presko feeling.
Filip + Inna
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Designer Len Cabili’s take on the barong Tagalog is opaque but still breathable. It features a detachable piña pechera or dickey embroidered with Mangyan motifs.
Gabbie Sarenas
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Designer Gabbie Sarenas has carved out a niche for bridalwear with her fine piña creations hand-embroidered with dainty sampaguitas, among other elements. Her instinct to also cater to grooms came naturally, hence her barongs that run the gamut from casual short-sleeved shirts to long-sleeved formal wear—all made with her signature embroidery.
Ha.Mu
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The design duo, while known for their loud and voluminous creations, can also dial it down to create soft yet sculptural Filipiniana, including barong. They only currently offer custom-designed barong.
Hansen
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A budding designer from Rizal, Bon Hansen is already making waves for his sharp tailoring infused with Filipino motifs. Take his barong for example. To call it just deconstructed is a disservice as he reconstructed the embroidered piña silk panels into something avant-garde.
Happy Andrada
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This Quezon City-based designer counts social media star Bretman Rock as a fan—specifically of her hooded barong. The sportswear-inspired piece adds athleisure cool to this traditional garment.
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Joey Samson
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He may be dubbed minimalist but Joey Samson’s genius is in the details. His barong creations are a favorite among actors for their unexpected cut and unconventional patterns, a result of his decades-in-the-making tailoring mastery.
Jorel Espina
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The barong could use a tech treatment, thought designer Jorel Espina. Hence, other than updating the shirt’s rigid proportion into a roomy fit, he upgraded the embroidery with three-dimensional laser-cut patchwork.
Kelvin Morales
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The best part about a Kelvin Morales barong is that you can customize your embroidery. You can give him a prompt or you can draw it yourself and he will have it embroidered over a sheer silk cocoon shirt.
Randolf
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The hip label Randolf by designer RJ Santos is one of the early adopters of barong as casual wear. He broke away from formal embroidery motifs in favor of contemporary themes, from Pokemon to Roy Lichtenstein-style pop art on his custom barongs.
Renz Reyes
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Tradition would dictate that decoration be concentrated in the middle front part of the barong. To hell with that, said designer Renz Reyes. His Hortitorture barong has silk appliqués, textured patches, and contrast stitching all over, front to back.
Tagpi
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In lieu of embroidery, Gabby Garcia of Tagpi decided barong should have 3D elements. In his case, they’re cowrie shells popularly used in the game of sungka and iridescent mother-of-pearl florets and buttons.
Vinta
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Designed in Toronto and made in the Philippines, Vinta’s silk organza barong features endemic flora embroidery in an effort to decolonize its Spanish past, a time when barong used to differentiate the descendants of pre-colonial settlers and the conquistadors.
Ziggy Savella
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It used to be that discerning men came to Ziggy Savella’s atelier for his dapper suits. But with a rekindled interest in the Filipino formal shirt, he too now designs impeccable barong with delicate Callado embroidery painstakingly handmade by the artisans of Lumban, Laguna.
