Kinilaw and inasal get the French treatment at this NYC wine bar
Photos from Justine’s on Hudson
Filipino food with its deep brown and decadent red dishes is often snubbed by Westerners for its unsophistication, something many chefs in the homeland have since debunked, developing our own liking for wine pairing with modernized versions of familiar fare.
In New York, Filipino-American chef Jeanne Jordan is doing her part to prove that Filipino cuisine is just as good with choice wine, at a new wine bar equipped with the cellar of one of America’s foremost wine importers, Neal Rosenthal.
Chef Jeanne Jordan/Photo from Justine’s on Hudson
Named after Rosenthal’s daughter, the menu at Justine’s on Hudson is seasonally driven, sourcing its ingredients from Rosenthal’s upstate farm. And while its oeuvre is French-leaning, Jordan’s culinary heritage still shines through her ingenious takes on Filipino classics.
Pinoys will surely recognize a few favorites just by taste. The seafood crudo is inspired by the kinilaw that Jordan’s dad makes. But while traditional Filipino ceviche tends to compliment the raw fish’s freshness with the acidity of vinegar or the tartness of various local fruits, Jordan’s fluke ceviche makes use of in-season fruits, recently grapes or apricot.
For something a little more traditional, there’s the delicate scallop or sea bass ceviche made with coconut milk, coconut vinegar, and ginger.
Scallop ceviche/Photo from Justine’s on Hudson
She suggests pairing these with the Cassis Blanc by Domaine du Bagnol (2021), whose origins point to a fishing village on the shores of the Mediterranean, where one can only assume it is consumed alongside fresh seafood.
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Another Justine’s on Hudson crowd-pleaser that originated from the kitchen of her childhood is the golden roast chicken reminiscent of inasal. Although a quick bite will instantly lead you to recognize that it is more adobo-like, thanks to the marinade of garlic, various dried herbs, and Knorr seasoning, which she got from her mother.
Gold roast chicken/Photo from Justine’s on Hudson
Like most rich Filipino dishes, the roast chicken goes well with an earthy wine with subtle tannins, Jordan says. Her go-to is the Ghemme Riserva Costa del Salmino (Rovellotti) from 2015.
Justine’s on Hudson is open Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
