New DC resto Hiraya offers adobo cookies, tocino burger, and more
Photos from Paolo Dungca/Instagram
Ugly but delicious.
That’s exactly how California-raised Filipino chef Paolo Dungca remembers the Pinoy cuisine of his early years in the States. But who would’ve thought that this core memory would eventually be the driving force behind his culinary adventures?
Since then, Dungca has been on a mission to revolutionize his homeland’s food scene in the West—and Hiraya (which means “fruit of one’s hopes and dreams” in ancient Filipino) couldn’t be a more appropriate manifestation of this gastronomic dream.
It’s a cafe and restaurant that serves up progressive Filipino fare like adobo chocolate chip cookies, ube and pandan latte, and black truffle ensaimada, among others. In addition, Hiraya is bringing back Pogiboy’s tocino burger with ube buns that made it to Food & Wine Magazine’s cover last year.
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A tale of two halves
It started out as a pop-up in 2022. Thanks to its massive success though, team Hiraya was able to secure a permanent space along H Street Corridor in Washington. It’s a two-story establishment, with every level serving up a different aspect of Filipino cuisine.
Running late for breakfast? Hiraya’s first floor is officially opening its doors on Sept. 30, and it’s more of an all-day cafe. Early riser or not, coffee lovers and teleworkers will find a haven here—specifically those who are growing tired of their usual Americano and croissants.
The cafe boasts a colorful array of lattes, including signature Pinoy flavors like ube and pandan. Hiraya also takes pride in its “Makulay” latte, which is visually inspired by birthday cake and claims to even taste like it.
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But it isn’t just about the coffee. Hiraya is also about giving its patrons the full Pinoy breakfast experience at any time of the day: garlic fried rice, fried egg, pickled papaya slaw, and marinated meats or veggies of your choice. Pork belly, short ribs, or maitake and enoki mushrooms—you decide.
Want something more on-the-go? There are egg-and-cheese sandwiches and pastries (or adobo chocolate chip cookies if your taste buds are feeling a bit more adventurous) to swoon over.
Meanwhile, the upstairs dining space will open later this year to showcase Dungca’s more ambitious culinary creations. It’s expected to offer both an à la carte selection and a degustation menu featuring seven to nine courses with optional wine pairings.
(A little spoiler: The menu includes cassava cake with smoked trout roe and crab fat, which is a delightful twist on a classic Filipino dessert.)
The theme (and team) behind Hiraya
Hiraya’s goal is clear: to present Pinoy cuisine in a way that’s as IG-worthy as it is palate-pleasing and to ultimately be a place where guests would feel “true Pinoy hospitality.”
Dungca teamed up with Julie Cortes and Carlos Lorenzo Rufo to bring this vision to life. Plus, he tapped Barman Al Thompson (who is popular for his craft cocktails at Barmini, Thip Khao, and Bronze) for Hiraya’s beverages, including a frozen coconut/pandan daiquiri and a calamansi crush.
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And let’s not forget the restaurant’s aesthetic. Walking into Hiraya is like stepping into a traditional Filipino home, where the heart of the house is the kitchen and the communal table is a hub of camaraderie.
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The paintings on the wall aren’t just any artwork either; they were donated by a friend’s mom from an actual Filipino household—adding an extra layer of authenticity to the dining experience.
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