Food galore, happy times and sobering thoughts on coming home

(The following are my rambling thoughts and recollections of perfect three weeks last November in the Philippines. First of two parts.)

LOS ANGELES – “Sigurado kang gusto mong mag-exit? (Are you sure you want to exit?)”

Prompts in Tagalog on my seat monitor aboard Philippine Airlines (PAL) made me feel at home even before we flew out of the Los Angeles International Airport. My wife Janet and I were going to the homeland after five years and it was our first trip back to Manila since the pandemic.

It was also our first time to fly home via PAL. Even before boarding the plane, we already felt like we were in Manila’s warm embrace. At the check-in counter, the LAX/PAL ground staff member was smiling, friendly, courteous and efficient. She looked familiar – okay, it was my niece, Elgeen.

The smiling, friendly PAL ground staff member looked familiar – Elgeen Nepales. CONTRIBUTED

Since it was our first opportunity to fly to the Philippines on PAL, it was our first direct flight from LA to home – no disembarking and hopping on another plane in Japan, Korea or Guam. Thus, we enjoyed not having to go through the stress of layovers.

Instead, we had time to truly appreciate the PAL crew’s attentive service and warmth, and inflight cuisine. Which other airline serves sinigang na baboy and for breakfast before landing, tapsilog?

Sinigang na baboy on board PAL. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

In between meals, I also savored mais con yelo and arroz caldo. Of course, there are other meal options to satisfy passengers’ different culinary tastes.

The direct flight also allowed the luxury of more sleep. And PR 103 landed early morning so it was virtually quiet at the Ninoy Aquino International Airport and a bit cooler when we stepped outside.

A win-win situation except our dear friend, who volunteered to pick us up, thought we would land in the “p.m.” instead of “a.m.”

But our excitement and happiness about being on Philippine soil again – we used to go home every year until COVID struck – made us accept the long wait for our ride to the hotel with patience.

And we could not help but be amused overhearing similar mix-up situations of other arriving passengers on their phones – “Sinabi ko ng Terminal 1! Nasaan ba kayo talaga?!?!!”

The contemporary elegance of Solaire Resort Entertainment City and the welcoming spirit of the staff immediately made us mellow out. This was in November but as with the rest of the Philippines, Solaire South was already bedecked in Christmas décor, reminding us that we are indeed home.

The view of the Manila Bay in our room sealed it for us. Throughout our stay, I would just stare at the vast expanse of the bay, especially in the early morning or at sunset, which inspired me to keep tapping my smartphone camera to take photos of the magnificent view.

Glorious Manila Bay sunset from a room at Solaire Resort Entertainment City. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

After dropping off our luggage, we made it in time to catch the international breakfast buffet at Fresh, our morning destination for the next several days.

The array of dishes from various countries, especially in Asia, reflected the cosmopolitan makeup of Solaire’s guests. But even amid the savory fare, what we binged on were Manila mangoes, truly the sweetest. The Fresh staff generously obliged our request for extra servings.

The Fresh staff at Solaire Resort South generously obliged requests for extra servings of sweet Manila mango. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

And thus began our foodie holiday in the Philippines – when you are home, it’s a given that diet takes a vacation, too. And it was tempting to just meet family and friends at Solaire South’s various restaurants. Why fight traffic when you can have merienda at the Oasis Garden Café, Kapampangan dishes at Abe or dinner and drinks at Waterside?

We caught up with friends too at the food court which serves Filipino and Asian cuisine. We made a mental note to try the hotel’s fine dining spots like Finestra Italian Steakhouse, Yakumi, and Red Lantern next time.

At the hotel’s Christmas tree lighting ceremony, hosted by Carla Guevarra-Laforteza, I was hoping the Philippine Madrigal Singers would perform their version of Yoyoy Villame’s Sabit-Sabit sa Christmas Tree.

The Philippine Madrigal Singers at Solaire Resort South’s Christmas tree lighting ceremony. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

The first time our two girls (they were toddlers then) heard the Madz’s take on the Pinoy Yule novelty song (from the Joy album), they giggled and were smitten. It became our family tradition in LA to start our Christmas celebration each year with the playing of this humorous tune.

The Madz sang other Christmas songs but hearing their glorious voices on original Pinoy holiday ballads made me think that there’s nothing like being in the Philippines during Christmas.

Lea Salonga and Clay Aiken, in town to guest in the former’s concert, capped the ceremony with their rousing duet, Sounding Joy. Later that night, Lea took our breath away in her show at The Theatre at Solaire, titled Stage, Screen & Everything in Between.

Lea Salonga and Clay Aiken duet on ‘Sound of Joy’ at Solaire South’s Christmas tree lighting event. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

The Tony Award winner, ever the consummate performer, dazzled with a refreshing set, many of them surprising but wonderful choices. I also enjoyed a more relaxed Lea in her spiels in between songs, which were illuminating about the songs she was about to perform and Lea herself.

Lea Salonga akcnowledges the ovation at the end of ‘Stage, Screen & Everything in Between,’ which boosts Solaire Resort’s reputation as a world class entertainment destination. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

After that show, which was extended for a night for a total of three at Solaire, I kept raving to family and friends, “Akala ko napakagaling na si Lea; e lalo pang gumagaling! (I thought Lea was already great; she is even greater!)”

A dinner hosted by designer Puey Quinones at his beautifully decorated atelier in Poblacion, Makati was hands down one of the most delicious meals we had in our three-week homecoming. Cooked by Puey’s personal chef, the dinner reflected what’s best about being back in Manila – good food shared with good friends amid even better conversations.

Designer Puey Quinones at his beautiful atelier. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

A dinner hosted by designer Puey Quinones reflected what’s best about being back in Manila – good food shared with good friends amid even better conversations. CONTRIBUTED

The 12th QCinema International Film Festival, led by Ed Lejano, kicked off with a pre-screening cocktails reception at The Edge Skyview Bar of the Ibis Styles Manila Araneta City Hotel.

It was good to meet again the Filipino and Asian filmmakers behind Directors Factory Philippines, the opening night film that we first saw at the Directors’ Fortnight in Cannes last May.

The Filipino and Asian filmmakers behind ‘Directors Factory Philippines,’ the opening night film of the 12th QCinema International Film Festival. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

Downstairs, before the first screening at the Gateway Cinema, Ricky Lee, the National Artist for Film and Broadcast Arts, was as popular as the arriving stars, even though he was a low-key yet smiling presence, as usual.

Ricky Lee, the National Artist for Film and Broadcast Arts, and journalist Ruben V. Nepales at QCinema International Film Festival’s opening night. CONTRIBUTED

On our first weekend home, we hied off to the hills of Tagaytay. Who knew that a nondescript alley would lead to a surprising green oasis, Ezra Resort, the perfect setting for a leisurely lunch?

Sharwin Tee, the first to be featured in the resort’s celebrity chef series, cooked his Little Grace Popup menu for us at an open-air pagoda surrounded by trees and the gentle sound of flowing water.

Waiter, there’s a fish in my tea! Chef Sharwin Tee brought his ceramic koi fish teacups, plates and bowls to his Tagaytay popup. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

As cool breezes wafted, we savored the nine-course Tsinoy feast, each dish inspired by Sharwin’s childhood memories, especially of watching his grandmother cook.

It was just as edifying listening to Sharwin, who wrote the book, The Gospel of Food: Lessons I Learned from Eating Around the World, introduce his dishes. Catch his popup which is open until Dec. 31.

Chef Sharwin Tee served a nine-course Tsinoy feast inspired by his childhood memories, especially of watching his grandmother cook. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

Afterward, Ezra’s Eric Alvin Po let us peek at one of his sustainable resort’s tastefully designed private cabins.

What’s a trip home without a big family reunion? From a family of six siblings, Janet’s clan has grown to 30 plus members – spouses, children and apos – headed by her dad, Vicente Rodriguez, who is 92 years old. You can imagine the happy ruckus we created during the family brunch, made merrier by Stella Rosa wines.

A trip home is not complete without a big family reunion. From a family of six siblings, Janet’s clan has grown to 30 plus members, headed by her dad, Vicente Rodriguez, 92 years old. CONTRIBUTED

My journey back to the homeland would also not be complete without a trek to my town, Calasiao, Pangasinan. It’s now a quicker drive, thanks to the TPLEX.

But what’s lost is driving through the old towns of Bulacan, Pampanga, Tarlac and Pangasinan. Seeing these towns aboard a Pantranco bus was one of my pleasures as a kid.

Instead, we were in Urdaneta, Pangasinan in a flash. I felt I lost a part of the homecoming experience. The feeling of loss was exacerbated by the sight of radically changed neighborhoods.

Progress and overpopulation have rendered once very familiar neighborhoods of my childhood into totally unfamiliar territories. Good thing that Phil Hernandez, who kindly drove us to Pangasinan and back, had been to my Viado cousins’ homes so he knew where to stop.

Seeing my cousins immediately took me back to our childhood, when we went to the same schools and spent summers in my Mamang’s hometown, Naic, Cavite. It was reassuring to look back and trade growing-up memories over the sumptuous spread of kakanin that my cousins generously prepared for us.

On our way to my childhood home, I just had to stop and pose for photos in front of Bued Elementary School, where my itch to write began.

The columnist in front of Bued Elementary School in Calasiao, Pangasinan where his itch to write began. CONTRIBUTED

Then it was on to Gabon, the barrio where I grew up. We stopped in front of our old family home which still stands but it’s a sad shell of what a happy place it was for us. The shed of the car repair shop now occupies our garden that used to bloom with bougainvillea and roses.

They blasted open the wall of our living room which created a huge gaping hole. The sight felt like a stab to my heart.

The small round mirror encased in the brick wall of our entryway was still there. The sight was somehow reassuring, including the red and white tiles on the floor where two rocking chairs used to be. Mamang read her romance novels in one of those chairs in the afternoon and evening.

I wandered inside. It was dark. The wall partitions were gone. Our bedroom windows were dusty but were still intact. I just discovered that in one bedroom, the wrought iron grill framing the windows included the letter N. I never noticed that detail before.

Out in the back, the terrace where we had many happy family al fresco lunches and breakfasts still had the big square floor blocks that I used to scrub clean of chicken poop (from their chico tree spots), one square at a time as my Dad instructed.

What remains of the columnist’s childhood home terrace where his family had happy al fresco lunches. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

On one side of the backyard, a wall on the hollow block structure that supported the water tank still had these words inscribed in caps: “BRING HOME D’ BACON.” It was the tribute of my father, a horse racing fan, to the equine that made him win the money that enabled him to build this little bungalow.

I vow to preserve and restore our humble home.

Meeting some of our neighbors, including my childhood friend, Denz Co, cheered me up. Going to the town proper and praying before Señor Divino Tesoro, the second most popular holy image in Pangasinan, also buoyed me up.

The shrine stands close to the town church, the second oldest in Pangasinan and was declared a National Cultural Treasure in 2001. But the centuries-old church is almost eclipsed by the popularity of the delicious Calasiao puto (rice cake).

There is now a row of stalls selling puto every day, a departure from my childhood days when the native cake was sold from baskets by women on Sundays only.

There is now a row of stalls selling Calasiao’s famous puto, a departure from the old days when the native cake was sold from baskets by women on Sundays only. Photo by Ruben V. Nepales

But one thing that has thankfully remained the same is that puto is still handed to buyers in a brown paper bag lined with banana leaves. I was a little boy again as I dug with my hand into the paper bag, grabbed a puto and popped it in my mouth. It tasted as good as I remembered it.

Then it was time to pay respects and visit the graves of my father, a dear relative who helped raise me, aunt and grandmother, at the town cemetery, now congested too, with tombs where an open path used to be. It’s always sobering to reflect and remember our beloved departed and what they meant to us.

On our way to Imelda and my late cousin Nitoy Estrellas’ beach house in Binmaley, a sign changed my somber mood and made me chuckle: “Pakiusap lang po. Videoke curfew10:00 pm. Penalty Php 2,000 (owner).”

Away from it all and re-discovering the beauty of Pangasinan. The columnist and his wife, Janet, at his late cousin’s beach house. CONTRIBUTED

Imelda, a busy anesthesiologist, made it a point to come from Manila so she could welcome us when we reached her family’s beach house, a dream project of my Kuya Nitoy who was able to enjoy it before he passed away. Over the next two days, we gorged ourselves with seafood, from pingka (dried fish) to Binmaley and Dagupan’s famous bangus.

We stepped out of the house once only – to have merienda with some of my high school classmates, three of them also my friends from grade school. One, Arthur, was my neighbor and childhood playmate. Looking at their faces, I was quickly taken back to my youth and specific memory vignettes popped up.

On our drive back to Manila, we made it a point to go to Manaoag first and pray before the miraculous image of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary. I’d like to believe that the venerated Ina (Mother) reacted to our most fervent prayer that morning and performed a miracle.

(To be concluded)