This SF restaurant rolls out 13-inch lumpia, vegan Filipino delights
Photos from mestizasf/Instagram
When Filipino American restaurateur Deanna Sison first visited the Philippines as a young child, she saw how food was “a magnet to come and gather and connect.”
“Memories are captured in the taste, flavors, smells of food. Sometimes no one even had to speak. We had food,” Sison tells KQED.
This experience was deeply etched in her mind as she forged a path to becoming a restaurant owner.
Sison, who first came to the Bay Area as a film student, soon found herself in the midst of San Francisco’s diverse food scene, whisking Filipino delights as she launched Mestiza in 2016.
Initially a taqueria, Mestiza quickly earned loyal followers. However, the pandemic hit the industry hard, leading to the restaurant’s closure in 2020.
The ever-resilient restaurateur was no stranger to the Bay Area’s evolving culinary scene. Undeterred by setbacks, she reinvented Mestiza, relaunching with a revamped menu.
Mestiza now offers Filipino cuisine with a contemporary twist, crafted to cater to sophisticated palates and the health-conscious.
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The relaunched restaurant reflects both her personal journey and deep connection to Filipino food traditions.
Mestiza’s 13-inch lumpia
At the forefront of Mestiza’s revival is its Filipino culinary fusion, blending traditional Filipino ingredients with vegan-friendly variations.
The star of Mestiza? A 13-inch lumpia roll stuffed with sweet potatoes, shaved Brussels sprouts and water chestnuts served with pineapple chili sauce.
For starters, their Elotes Filipinas, a fire-roasted corn smothered in creamy aioli and paprika, and wrapped in crispy garlic, is a must-try.
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Other notable dishes include crisp quinoa-and-mint salad enhanced with spicy mango jalapeño slaw and their rich Calabasa coconut stew with pear squash, leafy greens and coconut milk.
For dessert, try their oat milk vanilla soft-serve with chili crisps – an exquisite blend of spicy and sweet.
Another standout on their menu is the kamayan dinner — a classic Filipino feast meant to be enjoyed with bare hands and served on banana leaves.
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It allows diners to engage all their senses while eating the piled-up pork adobo, grilled shrimp, fresh fruits and vegetables.
“It’s similar to sitting at my grandmother’s table. There’s something fulfilling when you share an experience full of joy with others,” Sison describes to KQED.
The kamayan dinner has become a big hit. Customers need to make a reservation for this immersive Filipino feast. A minimum group of four is required to book a spot.
For Sison, Mestiza is not just a representation of her culinary ambitions and Filipino heritage, it’s also a reflection of her identity and journey from a film student to a celebrated entrepreneur in San Francisco’s Filipino Cultural District.
“To be here and have my own roots feels just as important because of Filipino Americans and their history in this neighborhood,” she remarked.
Next time you’re around the SoMa district, stop by this plant-forward food spot, open Tuesday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
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